The Garage Band North 500.

Date Published: 9th June 2016

It was Mo’s idea, well Ginny’s in fact, and we stole it - before she tells you herself. “What’s the North 500?” I said and immediately thought “That sounds a great route”, having done a few of the West Coast bits before. “Hilly” I thought…..

Somehow, I persuaded Dave Morrison and Chris Jones, at a turbo session in Dave’s garage, it would be at least as good as a cycling holiday in Italy. Then Kenny Anderson and Neil Kinninmonth seemed interested and we had the nucleus of a trip. We copied Mo’s planned route distances to spread the trip over 7 days. Then Pete Nellany and Ian Sinclair joined in giving a strong group of seven. We decided to take a day each organizing accommodation. That might have been Mo’s idea too.

By magic Jim Craig appeared, evening the numbers to a round eight, and bringing with him two willing drivers Jim Stephen and Paul Tosh and their own van!

Beer and Chilli meeting, to double check girls plans, accommodation and evening meals booked for 10 people at each stop, even coffee shops earmarked for suitable intervals (nothing to do with Mo), van loaded and we’re off to Inverness 8 am Saturday 15^th May.

Day 1, Inverness-Lochcarron
67 miles

A cruisy group cycle with not too much ascent, sunny day, favourable wind, feel-good run starting at Inverness Castle, through Beauly, and into Lochcarron after a brief stop near Garve –level crossing negotiated safely. Jim and Tosh were highly attentive with water and a selection of goodies, whilst also acting as film crew. Very comfortable B&B, Rock Villa, with fantastic cold beers and good food.

Day 2, Lochcarron to Gairloch
83 miles

A grey, cool day but rain free. Neil Anderson and Kieran Hendry joined us this morning all eagerly anticipating the Beallach na Ba, which was tough. Glad I’d added a 29 tooth sprocket for my 53/39 chain rings but what followed was harder and longer than anticipated. Should have insisted on an earlier breakfast as we didn’t set off til 10am. Enjoying coffee and scones in the Walled Garden in Applecross at 11.30 (watery coffee roundly rejected at the Applecross Hotel). The road to Shieldaig: “Lumpy” some would say! A late lunch, catering for 10 is never quick, so at 4pm, when Neil Anderson turned off at Kinlochewe to head back to Achnasheen, we still had 20 miles to go to Gairloch. The Youth Hostel at Gairloch was functional. Trusty van drivers collected us a Chinese carry out and before we knew it we were getting up again.

Day 3, Gairloch to Lochinver
95 miles.

Porridge and bananas, deciding on clothing for the day, and we’re off. The run through Poolewe, Aultbea and Gruinard was quite scenic, bright and enjoyable. Dived into Maggie’s Café at Dundonnel (recommended) avoiding shower. After assisting a tourer repair his puncture, we began the long climb up to Braemore Junction , then the descent to Ullapool, now into the wind. Pub lunch at the Arch Inn and off to Lochinver. I was keen for the coastal route around Stac Pollaidh but the official route was to follow the main road via Ledmore and Inchnadamph. The rolling hills seemed relentless but we eventually rolled into Lochinver about 5.30pm. The owner of the Lochinver Bunkhouse kindly agreed to take care of our washing and we strolled round to the fantastic Lochinver Pie Shop for dinner.

Day 4, Lochinver to Durness
61 miles

An easier day we thought. Really enjoyed the first 30 miles to Kylesku, awesome hills! Just seemed to get steeper each time, ultimately 22%, before descent to a welcome coffee at the Kylesku Hotel by the old Strome Ferry jetty. Over the bridge and north over rolling hills before a long gradual descent to Durness. Still dry somehow, despite grey breezy and cold weather. We piled into Choco Mountain Café for sustenance. Still being shadowed by that tourer , panniers and all, who seems to beat us to the next stop each day! Dave, by now embracing the bunkhouse experience, showered and presentable, invited him for a few beers and to eat with us in the Oasis Sands. Turns out Darren is an Iron Man and a great guy.

Day 5, Durness to Thurso
73 miles

Encouraging start with tail wind down the Kyle of Tongue, then the weather arrives, headwind then driving rain as we crept up the hill and down again to Tongue itself for a welcome coffee at the Ben Loyal Hotel, though the Weavers Cottage café, 2 miles on, looked nicer. Battled more up and down to Bettyhill for a bite in the only cafe, then head down into the wind, though more level, to Thurso. The Weigh Inn was again functional (go for the upgrade from the portacabins) but the food and Caithness Brewery beer hit the spot.

Day 6, Thurso to Brora
85 miles

Headwind for 27 miles to John O’Groats, cold but flat. Hoped for some respite heading south but strong crosswinds. Lunch at Wetherspoons in main street Wick surprisingly good. Onward for exciting descents in the rain and beating our way up the steep, long hills at Dunbeath and Berrydale. Senses of humour stretched by the time we reached Brora but cheered up by the Sutherland Arms welcome. Free washing facilities again. Great beer and food had by all.

Day 7, Brora to Inverness
74 miles

The calm after the storm, bright sunny day, gentle winds and a relatively level cycle following National Cycle Route 1 south, largely avoiding the main A9, via Dornoch, Evanton, Muir of Ord and Beauly. Great run into Inverness with a tailwind.

Lovely to finish up the hill to the Castle. And guess who was already there with his panniers!